Shrubs for a windbreak
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- This topic has 12 replies, 8 voices, and was last updated 19th May 2012 at 7:45 am by
Eleni13.

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Hi, our garden is in an exposed area close to Loumas, Elounda. The wind can be extremely strong and we need to create a windbreak to protect the large garden from the north westerly winds. We want to break the garden down into smaller areas, where we can sit etc. Don’t want to block out the spectacular views but need to try to fight the wind as it is destroying a lot of the plants we have put in which were recommended by garden centres. Any suggestions re: plants or artificial windbreaks would be most welcome as we are novices at this type of gardening.
Conifers are perfect but be careful not to put near paths etc as the roots are strong and spread. Plant about 1 1/2 metres apart and keep cutting the tops as they shoot to encourage them to bush out and meet each other.
Fowles
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We bought about 30 Oleander shrubs and planted them about 50cms apart. They need little attention and stay green all year with an abundance of flowers at this time of the year. You can see how well they do on the roadside all the way to Heraklion airport! Once they’ve reached the height you want, you could start to cut out the tops so that they bush out more but they make a really good wind colourful windbreak for our raised garden area and they come in lots of different colours.
Leylandii hedging planted about 18 inchs apart, very quick growing about 2/3 mtrs a year keep to 2 mtrs high with regular pruning, don`t let growth exceed this hight as the lower trunk becomes bare. not a true shrub, excellent wind break, well clipped becomes very dense.
garrigue
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We planted a row of oleanders as a wind break. We dug big holes and put them on the watering system. They are different varieties. Some just grow really bushy, whereas others have just shot up. The trouble is that these then bend over. So we cut them back heavily two weeks ago – probably should have done it in the autumn. Will all varieties of oleanders grow bushy if they are cut back heavily enough and is autumn the best time? :)
Nerine oleander will work well. So will;
Atriplix halimus
Rhamnus alaternus
Pittisporum tobira
Eleagnus pungens
Eleagnus x ebbingii
Griselina littoris
Hippophae rhamnoides
Spartium junceum
Viburnum tinus
Laurus nobilis
Myrtus communis
All Tamarisks
The hardest part, will be finding a garden centre, where the staff know the proper names of their plants!!! :-? :-? :-?
Belle :)6B4E465C561E2F0 wrote: Nerine oleander will work well. So will;
Atriplix halimus
Rhamnus alaternus
Pittisporum tobira
Eleagnus pungens
Eleagnus x ebbingii
Griselina littoris
Hippophae rhamnoides
Spartium junceum
Viburnum tinus
Laurus nobilis
Myrtus communis
All Tamarisks
The hardest part, will be finding a garden centre, where the staff know the proper names of their plants!!! :-? :-? :-?
Belle :)I think you forgot to mention: Naughtius maximus, Biggus Diccus and Incontinentia butocks
Don’t let scooby deter you Belle, some of us know why you use the Latin names.
They are fully understood at "En Kypo", for anyone close to one of their garden centres.
I agree with your list, it is pretty comprehensive.x5kmt
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Belle is quite right Lucy, I have never had any problems getting many of the plants on her list from my local garden centres and nursery. When all else fails they get a reference book out and can readily identify the plants from that, the Latin name of any plant is the key to what you want wherever you are.
My only reservation would be with regard to Oleander. All parts of the plant are toxic, even the smoke if you burn any parts you cut back.
Having a plegma fence all around the perimiter of my home I chose to use Bouganvillea, mainly the small leaved varieties which are less virulent as they grow, I do keep it cut back hard, especially at the front where it will block the sea view, but it does look lovely trailing down the 5mt rough stone retaining wall there when it is in flower. It is also sheep proof! I also have a couple of nursery grown Clematis and Honeysuckles mixed in, (brought from UK with the compost washed off, in hand luggage). In addition I have Campsis (also needs cutting back hard) Techomaris Capensis, and Plumbago. Now they are established, together with the Olive trees, they need little or no water and provide excellent shelter for the rest of my garden, protecting it from the strong winds which whip over the hillside and from the North, straight off the sea, where the house is located.
If you can obtain one, try and get a copy of Mary Jaqueline Tyrwitt’s book ‘Making a Garden on a Greek Hillside’. There is lots of valuable information in it.
Good luck
Kathleen
6A434A41461E1C2F0 wrote: Don’t let scooby deter you Belle, some of us know why you use the Latin names.
They are fully understood at "En Kypo", for anyone close to one of their garden centres.
I agree with your list, it is pretty comprehensive.I wasn’t trying to deter you Belle. It is called a joke Eleni13, unless of course you haven’t seen the film.
Don’t worry about Scooby, Eleni.
He is not the son of God. He is just a very naughty boy!!!
Belle ;D ;D ;DMany thanks for all the suggestions, I will try our local garden centres, where they seem to be pretty good on plants names.
The choice seems to be fantastic, much better that I had hoped for. If I can find any of Scooby’s suggestions, I’ll let you know where they stock them.If I can find any of Scooby’s suggestions, I’ll let you know where they stock them
:) :)Thanks, but I think not, Lucy.
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